On paper, Paris is all about grand boulevards and wide Haussmann avenues. In réalité, some of the city’s most interesting stories are hiding just behind the main streets, under glass roofs where light filters in and traffic noise disappears. I’m talking about the covered passages – those 19th‑century arcades that most first‑time visitors never see because they stay on the Grands Boulevards and around the big monuments.
If you like cities better when they surprise you at every corner, the passages are for you. They’re perfect for a rainy day, a winter afternoon, or simply when you’ve had enough of crowds at the Louvre or Opéra. In this guide, I’ll show you where to find the best ones, how to connect them into an easy walking route, what you can expect to pay in the cafés and shops, and which ones are worth skipping if you’re short on time.
What exactly are Paris’ covered passages?
The covered passages (passages couverts) are narrow pedestrian galleries, usually running between two streets, covered with glass roofs and lined with shops. Most were built in the early 1800s, before the big boulevards existed. They were the indoor malls of their time: sheltered from mud, horse traffic and weather, well lit, and quite chic.
Today, only about 20 remain, mostly on the Right Bank, around the 2nd and 9th arrondissements. Some are beautifully restored and full of life; others feel half‑asleep, with only a few stubborn bookshops or antique dealers holding on. That’s also part of their charm.
Practically speaking, they are:
- Free to enter
- Open to the public during daytime (typical hours: 9:00–19:30, some close for lunch or on Sundays)
- Safe to walk, even alone, as long as you stay during usual opening hours
- Perfect shortcuts if you hate waiting at traffic lights
The only real risk is falling for yet another vintage postcard, second‑hand book or pair of handmade earrings.
Planning your route: an easy half‑day arcade walk
If you look at a map, you’ll notice that many covered passages are grouped between the Opéra and Grands Boulevards area. That’s good news: you can explore several of them in 2–4 hours, without ever taking the metro.
A realistic half‑day route, walking slowly and stopping for a coffee, looks like this:
- Start: Métro Grands Boulevards (lines 8 and 9)
- Walk through: Passage des Panoramas → Passage Jouffroy → Passage Verdeau
- Optional detour by bus or on foot to: Passage Brady (for an Indian lunch break)
- Then head toward: Galerie Vivienne & Galerie Colbert near Palais‑Royal
- Finish: a drink around Place des Victoires or in the Palais‑Royal gardens
Walking time between passages: usually 5–15 minutes. With photo stops, browsing and a coffee, expect around 3 hours. If you’re someone who reads every book spine, make it 4.
Passage des Panoramas: old Paris under glass
If you only have time for one, start with Passage des Panoramas. Built in 1799, it’s often considered the “mother” of Parisian passages. It runs between Boulevard Montmartre and Rue Saint‑Marc (9th/2nd).
Why it’s worth your time:
- Atmosphere: wooden storefronts, old typography, neon signs that look straight out of the 1950s
- Shops: stamp and coin dealers, old postcards, quirky galleries, a few tourist‑leaning souvenir spots but not too invasive
- Food: several small bistros and wine bars, plus crêperies and Italian restaurants
- Location: directly off a major boulevard, yet the noise drops the moment you step in
Budget idea: a glass of wine at a small bar inside costs around 5–8 €, a main dish at a mid‑range bistro will be 16–24 €. Not the cheapest in Paris, but you’re also paying a little for the setting. If you’re travelling with kids, a simple crêpe or pastry snack (+ drink) will land around 6–8 € per person.
Field note: the last time I walked through at around 18:30 on a Tuesday, office workers were squeezing in for apéro, while a stamp dealer was politely explaining to a young tourist why his grandfather’s old envelope was “charming but not exactly a collector’s dream”. It’s that mix of casual everyday life and niche obsessions that makes this passage interesting.
Passage Jouffroy & Passage Verdeau: from wax figures to vintage cameras
Directly opposite Passage des Panoramas, on the other side of Boulevard Montmartre, you’ll find Passage Jouffroy, which then continues into Passage Verdeau. Together, they form a straight line of glass and tiles that feels like a little time tunnel.
Passage Jouffroy (9th):
- Look for the beautiful metal and glass ceiling and the slightly sloping tiled floor.
- It’s home to the historic Hôtel Chopin, a simple, good‑value hotel I often recommend to readers who want a central but not flashy base.
- Entrance to Musée Grévin (wax museum) is here. Is it a must‑see? Only if you’re really into wax figures or travelling with children who will recognise French celebrities. Otherwise, I’d save your budget.
Prices here are similar to Passage des Panoramas, but you’ll also find:
- Toy shops and board game stores (great if you need a non‑plastic, non‑Eiffel‑Tower souvenir)
- Small décor boutiques that won’t exist in six months, then reappear under another name – that’s the passage ecosystem
Passage Verdeau (9th/10th), the quieter continuation, is my favourite of the three:
- Fewer restaurants, more antique shops, vintage photography and old books
- Less foot traffic, especially on weekday mornings – you may share it mostly with locals and a cat or two in the shop windows
Expect curious price ranges: one crate of 1 € postcards sitting under a glass cabinet with a 500 € vintage Leica. I once spent a full half‑hour here chatting with a bookseller who gently redirected a tourist from a flashy coffee table book to a slim, cheaper and more accurate guide on Parisian architecture. “Less Instagram, more information,” he said. I couldn’t disagree.
Galerie Vivienne & Galerie Colbert: refined arcades near Palais‑Royal
Move south‑west (roughly a 15–20 minute walk from Passage Verdeau, or hop on bus 20 or 39 toward the 1st arrondissement) and you reach a more elegant pair: Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert.
Galerie Vivienne (2nd) is often cited as the most beautiful passage in Paris. The entrance on Rue des Petits Champs is discreet; you might walk past it without noticing if you’re distracted by the shops around Palais‑Royal. Inside, though:
- Magnificent mosaic floors – look down as often as you look up
- Arched glass roof and warm beige tones
- Chic fashion, wine shops and design bookstores – less “bargain”, more “window‑shopping” territory
Budget wise, cafés here are more expensive. Count around 4–6 € for an espresso or café crème, 12–18 € for a glass of wine in a high‑end wine bar. If that’s outside your range, you can still enjoy the passage for free, then grab coffee on a side street nearby (Rue des Petits Champs or Rue Vivienne) where prices drop back to 2.50–3 € for a café.
Galerie Colbert is connected and often quieter, as it’s home to cultural institutions rather than shops. You’ll find:
- Impressive glass rotunda
- Bookish, academic atmosphere – the Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art is here
- Occasional art exhibits and events
If you love architecture and photography, these two passages are non‑negotiable. Just avoid peak lunch hour (12:30–14:00) if you dislike crowds of office workers passing through.
Passage du Grand Cerf & surrounding streets: design and crafts
On the edge of the trendy Montorgueil area, Passage du Grand Cerf (2nd) is tall, slender and slightly more bohemian. The metal and glass structure rises much higher than most passages, giving a vertical feel you don’t get elsewhere.
Inside you’ll find:
- Independent jewellery designers
- Handmade décor and ceramics
- Concept stores that change frequently but keep the same arty spirit
Prices for items are higher than in a classic souvenir shop, but they’re also unique. Think 40–80 € for a pair of earrings, 30–60 € for a handmade mug or bowl. Not mandatory purchases, of course, but worth browsing if you like supporting small designers rather than mass‑produced Eiffel Towers.
Good to know: step out toward Rue Montorgueil afterwards for food. This market street is full of bakeries, cheese shops and cafés. A typical lunch formula (starter + main or main + dessert) at a neighborhood bistro here will cost around 18–23 €. Cheaper options include a takeaway quiche + pastry from a bakery (about 7–10 € total) eaten on a bench.
Passage Brady: a different world under glass
Not all passages are about antiques and bourgeois chic. Passage Brady (10th) offers something completely different: a long, narrow arcade full of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi restaurants, grocery shops and barbers.
The covered section runs between Boulevard de Strasbourg and Rue du Faubourg Saint‑Denis. Expect:
- Bright signs and menus pitching “Best curry in Paris” every two meters
- Men in suits from nearby offices having a quick lunch next to families and students
- Persistent but usually polite waiters trying to lure you in
Is it a tourist trap? Not exactly, but quality varies. I avoid places with aggressively insistent staff and ultra‑cheap “formule” deals that promise everything for 10 €. Look instead for restaurants where you see local South Asian families or solo diners eating quietly. That’s usually a safer sign.
Budget: count 15–20 € per person for a decent curry + naan + drink. It’s an excellent option if you’re craving something other than French food and want to experience a different side of Parisian life under a glass canopy.
When to go, and how to avoid frustration
Covered passages are relatively forgiving on timing, but a few points will save you annoyance:
- Best time of day: late morning (10:00–12:00) or mid‑afternoon (14:30–17:30). Many small shops open around 10:00 or even 11:00.
- Mondays: some boutiques are closed or slow to open. You can still walk through, but it may feel a bit sleepy.
- Evenings: after 19:30, many passages close or feel empty. Check posted hours at the entrance.
- Sundays: passages around Grands Boulevards can be active, but individual shop schedules are unpredictable. It’s still a pleasant promenade, just don’t plan your only shopping time then.
Weather tip: on rainy days, the passages are a fantastic plan B. Expect more people with the same idea, but it rarely becomes unbearable. Noise levels stay lower than on the main streets.
Safety, comfort and very practical tips
Covered passages are generally safe, but like everywhere in central Paris, keep some basics in mind:
- Pickpockets: less of a problem here than in the metro or around the big monuments, but still keep bags zipped and phones in a front pocket or crossbody bag.
- Footwear: floors can be slightly uneven or slippery when wet, especially tile and stone. Avoid very high heels or smooth soles.
- Toilets: you won’t often find public restrooms inside the passages. Use cafés (order at least a drink) or look for municipal toilets near big intersections.
- Photos: generally allowed, but if you’re shooting inside small boutiques, ask first. Most shopkeepers are fine with it if you’re respectful.
Accessibility: some passages have stairs at one entrance or a slight slope, which can be tricky for wheelchairs or strollers. Passage des Panoramas and Galerie Vivienne are among the more accessible, but it’s still not a perfectly flat, step‑free world.
How much to budget for a “passage day”
If you’re planning a half‑day exploring passages, here’s a realistic budget per person:
- Transport: 2 single metro/bus tickets = about 4.60 €, or free if you’re within walking distance
- Coffee + pastry snack: 5–8 € in or around the passages
- Simple sit‑down lunch: 15–25 € depending on area (Brady generally cheaper than Vivienne)
- Small souvenir (postcards, second‑hand book): 3–15 €
So around 25–45 € total, depending on how much you shop and where you eat. You can easily cut that in half by skipping the sit‑down lunch and grabbing bakery food instead.
Suggested itineraries by mood
If you’re not sure how to combine everything, here are a few tested “recipes” depending on what you like.
For architecture lovers:
- Start at Galerie Vivienne (10:00)
- Cross to Galerie Colbert
- Walk via Palais‑Royal gardens toward Passage Choiseul (more local, less polished)
- Finish with Passage des Panoramas for contrast
For vintage & book hunters:
- Begin in Passage Verdeau (11:00) – bookshops, vintage photography
- Continue to Passage Jouffroy, check smaller side shops
- Lunch around Grands Boulevards or a quick sandwich
- End in Passage du Grand Cerf for design pieces
For food explorers:
- Late morning wander through Passage des Panoramas (coffee stop)
- Short metro or bus hop to Passage Brady for an Indian or Pakistani lunch
- Walk off the meal by heading up toward Canal Saint‑Martin or south toward Grands Boulevards again
Tourist traps, myths, and what you can skip
You’ll sometimes see blog posts listing “hidden” passages that are neither hidden nor particularly interesting once you’re there. A few points to keep expectations realistic:
- Not all passages are magical. Some have turned into mostly office corridors or have several empty shops. If you walk into one and feel underwhelmed, don’t force it. Move on to the next instead of trying to “make it special”.
- Beware of overpriced “old Paris” cafés. If a café is advertising in multiple languages and pushing huge tourist menus out front, prices inside will reflect that. It doesn’t mean the experience is awful, just that you’re paying above local rate for the décor.
- The “secret” label is outdated. The best‑known passages are not exactly a secret anymore – you’ll meet locals, tourists and guided groups. What’s still special is how quickly the atmosphere changes once you step inside, even if you’re not alone.
A simple rule I use: if you stand at the entrance and immediately see more neon “TAX FREE” and “Best burger” signs than independent storefronts, it’s probably not the kind of passage you crossed the city for. Turn on your heel and save your walking energy.
Why these passages still matter to a modern visitor
Even in a city full of “must‑see” spots, the covered passages offer something different: a sense of scale and intimacy that big monuments don’t have. You’re close to the shopkeepers, you see the details in the architecture, you hear snippets of real conversations – from a stamp collector’s negotiation to a hurried “on se retrouve là‑haut” between colleagues meeting for lunch.
For curious travellers, they’re also a practical tool: weather‑proof shortcuts, pleasant detours between major sights, and reliable places to find a coffee or a last‑minute gift without diving into a department store. If your idea of exploring Paris includes getting off the main avenues without wandering into deserted backstreets, the passages are the perfect compromise.
Plan a morning or an afternoon for them. Start with the trio Panoramas–Jouffroy–Verdeau, then add Vivienne or Grand Cerf depending on your mood. Leave room for what the passages do best: slowing you down just enough for you to notice the city breathing under the glass.