Let’s be honest: if you’re coming to Paris for art, everyone will tell you the same three names – the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou. They’re great, but if you stop there, you’re missing half of what makes the city interesting today. The real pulse of contemporary art is in side streets, old warehouses, former factories and a few slightly chaotic spaces where the paint is still drying.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through some of my go-to places when friends ask me: “Where can I see what’s happening in Paris now, beyond the big museums?” Expect practical tips: how to get there, what it costs, when to go, plus a few very concrete mini-itineraries so you don’t spend your day zigzagging across town.
How to organize an art-focused day in Paris (without losing time in transit)
Paris looks small on the map, but crossing the city just for one gallery can easily eat 45 minutes each way. My advice: organize your visits by neighborhood. Here are three good “clusters” for art lovers:
- Le Marais & around République: dense concentration of major galleries + a few foundations.
- Rive Gauche (Left Bank): more discreet, slightly older clientele, but strong galleries and Fondation Cartier.
- East & North-East Paris: Belleville, 13th arrondissement, Romainville – more experimental, more local.
Pick one cluster per half-day, two if you walk fast and don’t linger too much. Now, let’s zoom in.
Le Marais: the classic gallery crawl
Le Marais is still the easiest area if you want to see a lot in a short amount of time. On a Saturday afternoon, you can step into ten different galleries within a 15-minute walk radius.
Where to start: exit at Saint-Paul (line 1) or Chemin-Vert (line 8). From there, most streets are walkable and fairly safe, day and evening.
Key galleries to check out (all free entry):
- Galerie Perrotin – 76 rue de Turenne, 3rd
Large, polished, and often busy on weekends. International names, big installations, and usually very professional staff. Budget-wise, you’re just looking: prices aren’t displayed, and unless you have several zeros on your bank account, you won’t be buying here – but it’s visibly “museum-level” work without the ticket price. - Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac – 7 rue Debelleyme, 3rd
A few minutes from Perrotin. They often show big names (Anselm Kiefer, Georg Baselitz…). It feels like a small private museum: large white spaces, impeccable lighting. If you like painting and sculpture on a grand scale, this is a good stop. - Kamel Mennour (Marais space) – 5 rue du Pont de Lodi? (main Rive Gauche), but the Marais/Théâtre space sometimes opens; double-check online.
When their Marais exhibition space is open, it’s worth the detour. Expect thoughtful, sometimes more conceptual shows, but usually accessible even if you’re not a theory addict. - Galerie Daniel Templon – 30 rue Beaubourg, 3rd
Close to Centre Pompidou, strong programming, often painting or sculpture that’s easy to approach even for non-specialists.
When to go: Tuesday–Saturday, 11:00–19:00 is standard. Many galleries close on Sunday and Monday. Saturday afternoon is the most lively: you’re usually not alone, and openings (“vernissages”) often happen mid-week in the early evening.
Budget & timing:
- Entry: free for the galleries mentioned.
- Time: 2–3 hours for 5–8 galleries without rushing.
- Coffee break: count 3–4 € for an espresso / café crème in a café around rue de Turenne or rue Vieille-du-Temple. Sit inside to avoid terrace surcharges in the more touristy spots.
Small, slightly hidden spaces to try if you have time:
- gb agency – 18 rue des Quatre Fils, 3rd: more research-oriented, but the shows are often clever and well-mounted.
- Galerie Jocelyn Wolff (Romainville now, but used to be East Paris): if you’re ready to go further out, check their program and location – they moved to the Romainville art complex (more on that below).
Is it worth it? If you like seeing what’s considered “important” in the contemporary art market, yes. If you prefer grittier, younger scenes, Marais can feel a bit too polished – in that case, keep reading, Belleville might suit you better.
Palais de Tokyo: contemporary art without the museum stiffness
Technically, this is a “big institution”, but it doesn’t have the same tourist crowds as the Louvre or Orsay, and the atmosphere is more relaxed. On a Tuesday night, I once saw a group of teenagers quietly sketching in a corner while a performance was happening in the next room – not exactly the Mona Lisa selfie crowd.
Where: 13 avenue du Président Wilson, 16th arrondissement.
Metro: Iéna (line 9) or Alma-Marceau (line 9), about 5–7 minutes walking.
What to expect:
- Large-scale installations, sometimes immersive or a bit strange (good strange).
- Several exhibits running at the same time; the offer changes a lot across the year.
- A big building that feels more like a playground for artists than a “shh, don’t talk” museum.
Opening hours: usually 12:00–00:00 (midnight) from Wednesday to Monday (closed Tuesday), but always double-check, as they sometimes adjust.
Tickets: around 12–14 € for full price; reduced for students / under 26 / jobseekers, and free for some categories. No need to book far ahead on weekdays; on weekend afternoons, booking a timeslot can save waiting at the ticket desk.
Good to know:
- They have a café and restaurant; not the cheapest, but convenient if you don’t want to leave the building.
- From the terrace you get a nice view of the Eiffel Tower – if you time it around sunset, you can watch the lights start while still in your art bubble.
Nearby alternative if you still have energy: cross the river to the Left Bank and walk 15–20 minutes towards Invalides or Saint-Germain for a completely different gallery atmosphere.
Fondation Cartier & the quieter Left Bank
The Left Bank doesn’t scream “art” as loudly as the Marais, but if you like architecture, design and slightly calmer streets, it’s a very good match.
Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain
Where: 261 boulevard Raspail, 14th arrondissement.
Metro: Raspail (lines 4 & 6), Denfert-Rochereau (lines 4, 6, RER B).
The glass-and-steel building by Jean Nouvel is already a reason to come. Exhibitions are often very immersive and accessible: photography, drawing, installations, sometimes big names, sometimes discoveries.
Practical info (check their site for the exact numbers, they may evolve):
- Tickets: about 11–12 € full price, reduced for under 26, students, etc.
- Opening hours: usually 11:00–20:00, late opening one evening per week (often Tuesday) until 22:00.
- Booking: online booking recommended for popular exhibitions and weekend visits.
Tip: the garden is not huge but very pleasant. On a weekday morning, you can almost forget you’re in Paris, especially if it’s a bit drizzly and quiet.
Nearby galleries for a mini-itinerary:
- Kamel Mennour (main space) – 47 rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 6th
Take metro line 4 from Raspail to Saint-Michel, then walk 6–7 minutes. The gallery is in a typical old Paris building, but inside it’s all clean lines and well-curated shows. Often serious, but not intimidating. - Galerie Lelong & Co. – 13 rue de Téhéran (technically more towards Parc Monceau, but part of the same “Rive Droite” network)
If you’re willing to change area, they show strong established artists; worth it if you are following specific names.
Time & budget for this Left Bank loop:
- Fondation Cartier: 1.5–2 hours.
- One gallery stop in Saint-Germain: 30–45 minutes.
- Transport: one metro ticket per ride (2.10 € if you buy single tickets, cheaper with passes).
Belleville: emerging artists and open studios
If you want something more local and less polished, head to Belleville. On a random weekday, you’ll probably share the sidewalk with delivery scooters, families coming back from school, and an artist dragging a canvas awkwardly across the pavement. This is not postcard Paris – which is precisely why I like it.
Where: around metro Couronnes or Belleville (lines 2 & 11), mostly in the 19th and 20th arrondissements.
What you’ll find:
- Small galleries that may or may not be open exactly when they say – but that’s the game.
- Artist studios in old industrial buildings.
- Every spring, a big “Portes Ouvertes des Ateliers de Belleville” weekend where dozens of artists open their studios for free. You walk with a map, ring on buzzers, climb stairs, and sometimes end up in an improvised bar in a courtyard. Very friendly, very mixed crowd.
Good starting points (check opening days carefully):
- Galerie Poggi (Rue de Belleville space) – if still open, it’s a clean, contemporary space showing solid programming.
- Various small project spaces around rue Ramponeau, rue Denoyez and side streets. Expect graffiti, collectives, and sometimes very experimental work; some days it feels vibrant, other days it’s very quiet – part of the charm.
Safety & atmosphere: it’s a working-class, gentrifying area. I walk there regularly, including early evening, but as in any big city, keep your bag zipped and avoid waving your phone on street corners. Nightlife can be a bit noisy; if that bothers you, stick to late afternoon.
Budget:
- Galleries & open studios: free entry.
- Drinks in a local bar: 6–7 € for a glass of wine, 3–4 € for a soft drink; cheaper than Saint-Germain, more expensive than the suburbs.
13th arrondissement & Romainville: new art hubs in old industrial spaces
In the last years, several big art players have moved or opened spaces in more peripheral areas – mostly because they need large surfaces, and central Paris is both small and expensive. That’s good news for you if you’re curious and not afraid of taking the tram or the bus.
Komunuma – Romainville art complex
Where: 43 rue de la Commune de Paris, Romainville (Seine-Saint-Denis).
Access:
- Metro line 5 to Bobigny-Pantin Raymond Queneau, then bus or 15–20 min walk.
- Or tram T1 to Grands Pêchers, then walk.
Several galleries and art spaces grouped in a former industrial area: Galerie Jocelyn Wolff, In Situ – Fabienne Leclerc, and others. When everything is open, you can see several very different shows within one courtyard.
When to go:
- Wednesday–Saturday afternoons are usually safest in terms of openings.
- Don’t go Monday: most spaces will be closed.
Why bother leaving central Paris?
- You see how the Paris art scene is expanding beyond its old center.
- The shows are often less crowded, you can talk to gallery staff without feeling rushed.
- On opening days, the atmosphere is almost like a small festival: people cross from one gallery to another with a glass in hand, kids run in the courtyard, and artists are usually around.
13th arrondissement: street art and contemporary art spaces
The 13th is better known for its large street art murals (look up as you walk), but you’ll also find interesting art venues.
- Les Frigos – 19 rue des Frigos, 13th
Former refrigerated warehouses turned into artist studios. Not a classic gallery: you usually enter during open studio events or specific festivals. When I went during an open day, I ended up discussing for 20 minutes with a sculptor who also repairs bicycles between shows – very 13th arrondissement vibe. - Various small spaces near the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand area – keep an eye on local listings, programs change fast.
Access: metro Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand (line 14, RER C) or Chevaleret (line 6).
59 Rivoli: the lively artist squat turned official space
If you like the idea of seeing artists at work, but you don’t want to decode a gallery buzzer or search for open studio dates, 59 Rivoli is the easy option right in the city center.
Where: 59 rue de Rivoli, 1st arrondissement.
Metro: Châtelet or Châtelet–Les Halles.
Originally a squat, now a legal, city-supported art space with multiple floors of studios open to the public. You climb up narrow stairs, every wall is painted or scribbled, and you can literally peek inside the studios while artists work.
What to know:
- Entry: free, donations encouraged (a box near the entrance).
- Opening hours: usually afternoons, around 13:00–20:00, but check their website before going.
- Atmosphere: informal, friendly, a bit chaotic. Some studios are very professional, others more experimental.
Who is it for? If you want spotless white cubes, this is not your place. If you prefer energy, music leaking from a door, and the possibility to buy a drawing directly from the artist for a reasonable price, then yes, it’s worth an hour.
How to read a gallery visit (and not feel out of place)
Paris galleries can feel intimidating if you’re not used to them, but the rules are simpler than they look.
- Entry is free unless clearly stated otherwise. You don’t need to buy anything or pretend you’re a collector.
- Say hello when you enter (“Bonjour”), even if the person at the desk looks very busy with their computer. It helps.
- Photos: always ask. Many galleries allow them, some don’t. A simple “Est-ce que je peux prendre une photo ?” works.
- Ask for the press release if you want context. Most shows have a printed sheet explaining the work, usually available near the entrance.
- Don’t touch the artworks, even if they look interactive. If you’re supposed to enter or manipulate something, it will be indicated.
I’ve watched many visitors do the “quick fake glance and exit” in less than 1 minute. You’ll get more out of it if you deliberately choose one or two works per show and spend 3–4 minutes with each. Even sitting on a bench and just looking at how a sculpture occupies the room can change the experience completely.
Sample day itinerary for art lovers (with real-world timings)
Here is a concrete example of how you could organize one day in Paris focused on contemporary art, without rushing.
- 10:00 – Start in the Marais (Saint-Paul metro). Grab a coffee and a simple breakfast (about 7–9 € for coffee + pastry) in a local bakery-café.
- 10:30–13:00 – Gallery crawl: Perrotin, Ropac, Templon, and one or two smaller spaces on the way. Count 2.5 hours including walking and short chats.
- 13:00–14:30 – Lunch around République or Arts-et-Métiers: a simple bistro or a falafel/sandwich will be in the 10–18 € range depending on what you choose.
- 14:30–15:00 – Metro to Palais de Tokyo (about 20–25 minutes with transfers).
- 15:00–17:00 – Visit Palais de Tokyo. Ticket around 12–14 €. Take your time with each hall, maybe a short break in the café.
- 17:00–17:30 – Walk down to the Seine, enjoy the Eiffel Tower view, maybe cross to the Left Bank.
- 18:00–19:30 – If you still have energy, metro to Châtelet and visit 59 Rivoli. Free, and the late-afternoon atmosphere is usually lively.
Approximate budget for the day (per person):
- Metro/bus: 4–6 rides → around 8–10 € with single tickets, less with a day pass.
- Breakfast + lunch + small coffee: around 20–30 € if you stay in simple, non-touristy spots.
- Paid entries: Palais de Tokyo (12–14 €), possibly another foundation if you add one.
So with one paying venue and the rest free galleries, your art-focused day can stay roughly in the 40–55 € range, transport and food included, if you don’t go for fancy restaurants.
Paris will always have its blockbuster museums, and they’re worth a visit at least once. But if you want to feel the city as a living art ecosystem – with its polished white cubes, messy studios, industrial warehouses and spontaneous street shows – you’ll find that world in these smaller, more agile spaces. They’re the places where artists test ideas, where locals actually go, and where you can step in for free, spend twenty minutes, and come out with your own opinion instead of a selfie in front of the same painting as everyone else.